It is that time of year again when the majestic whales come to our shores.
In the Western Cape we are privileged to see these amazing creatures with their calves up close.
All along our coast line from Cape Town to Durban but especially in Hermanus, which is one of the world centres for whale watching, we can see them swim, play and socialise.
When, why, how?
Traveling South Africa, I must mention and talk about the Southern Right Whale coming to our shores. Four species of whales swim in our waters. The Humpback, Brydes, killer, and Southern Right whale. I’ve seen two of them, the killer whale, and the Southern right whale. “Whale season” starts in July and ends in December, but the peak period is September, October, and November. We always see them in documentaries on tv, but nothing comes close to seeing and hearing them in real life. Coming up next to the boat in Hermanus I could not believe how big they were. It is something you must witness for yourself one day. Speaking out of personal experience, it has something emotional like seeing the Elephants for the first time. When we are driving along our coastal roads, we spot them on numerous occasions. They come to our waters traveling an astonishing 10000 kilometres to mate and calve. The females come back to the exact same spot where they conceived.
Southern right whale?
First of all, why are they called Southern Right Whales? They were the right whale to hunt, that’s why. Whales are highly intelligent and social mammals travelling in groups called “pods”. Swimming and migrating in the southern hemisphere, recent genetic evidence now shows that Southern and northern right whales have not interbred for between 3 million and 12 million years. They are a complete separate species . Southern right whales are considered endangered but since international protection in 1935 their numbers have increased substantially to some 15000. An average Southern right can grow up to 15 meters and weigh up to 45 tons. But that can easily go up to 20mteres and 80 tons. Females are reproductive mature by the age of 9 to 10 years old. They “carry” their calves for a period of 12 to 14 months before giving birth. When born a calf is 5 to 6 metres long and weighs 1500 kg. Now, they must be protected against killer whales and great white sharks. In our waters the mother will feed the calf 250 litres of milk a day, by doing so it will gain weight up to 9 tons in a few weeks. She has to if she wants the calf to survive the long journey back to Antarctica. During all this time the mother does not eat. The nursing period goes on for 4 to 6 months after birth.
Playing in our waters.
Writing this I must be honest with you; I’ve never seen them “jump,” breaching out of the water. I hope when you come you can witness it. People who have seen it (like my beautiful wife) say “I saw them play” it was magnificent. But what they are actually doing is communicating. By splashing in to the water they are letting others whales, hundreds of km away know exactly where they are. The harder the splash the further they can “talk.” Youngsters do it playfully to learn, males also do it to impress. Showing of power is also done by slapping their tailfin on the water surface, it is known as lobtailing. And we being in South Africa watch them with big eyes and open mouth, in awe of natures beauty. Whales are curious about what is around them and can get close to see what is going on. If that happens sit back and enjoy. Otherwise, boats MUST stay 300 meters away except some whale cruises who are aloud to go up to 50 meters. It may seem far but when they blow out air out of their 2 blow holes, believe me it’s close. The “spray” is loud and powerful. When you come to South Africa always carry a pair of binoculars. There’s always something to spot, and here they will come in handy as well. Hermanus is the best whale watching spot because there is no continental shelf, the whales can come really close to the viewing point. And when they do the whale spotter in the centre of the square blows his horn letting everyone know they are there.
Their way back.
By the end of November, the whales start disappearing, migrating back to Antarctica. They go there to feast on krill eating up to 2 tons a day. They do so, using a special technique of blowing bubbles in a perfect ‘P’ shape catching the krill in the centre. These and many other things are learned to the young calves born in South African waters. As they travel whales communicate by using clicks, whistles and pulsed calls that can be heard over thousands of kilometres. By now Hermanus turns to “normal.” It is very busy during peak whale season. So I would advise booking your cruise in advance if you know what days you are going to be there. If you are traveling around and do not know exactly what period you will be around Hermanus, booking a few days in advance will also work. We drive to Hermanus along the coastal route from Cape Town. It’s a very pleasant and beautiful panoramic drive, about 1h.40 min. But for those of you who would love to stay in Hermanus overnight or for a few days I would suggest booking in advance as well. Hermanus is quite big and has lots of restaurants, shops, terraces. The old harbour that use to be a whaling station now hosts a museum.
Famous last words.
This will be one of the most special experiences in your life, seeing these majestic animals with their calves up close and personal. So, the better you are prepared, the more you will enjoy.
In peak season, book in advance. Take your binoculars with and keep them safe like the rest of your valuables on the boat. When traveling with small children (which can be challenging sometimes). Be extra vigilant, make sure they stay seated in the boat despite their enthusiasm. Out on the water it can get cold even when the sun is shining, dress warm (you can always take things off). Take some sea sickness medication if you are sensitive on a boat, after all the Cape is known as the Cape of storms. If you really can’t handle a boat trip, don’t be disappointed. You can spot the whales clearly from the viewing points along the shore with your binoculars. Listen to the horn of the whale spotter warning you when they are there.